Evaluation

On the whole I have really enjoyed this project. I enjoyed researching classic Elizabethan make up in order to create my own contemporary Elizabethan make up look. Before this project I found research hard, often jumping to my final idea too quickly. Through the use of my blog I am now more comfortable in knowing how to present my research and ideas, and show how I got from an initial idea to a final concept. I mostly used the internet for my research with the exception of one book, I think it would have been beneficial to use some more varied sources to make sure I had as much information as possible. I had no previous make up experience prior to starting this course and I have loved going back to the start and perfecting the basic skills needed to create beautiful looks. I also really enjoyed learning the techniques that were more specific to our New Elizabethan project such as blocking out eyebrows, and creating the perfect white base. My partner, Charlotte and I both went through quite drastic changes to our designs over the course of the project, but we communicated well and dealt with these by doing extra practice in our own time, and clearly explaining to each other how we wanted our designs to look. I think next time, I would do more practice of my design on my own face to ensure I actually like my final look, to prevent having to change my whole idea so last minute. Overall, I think that I have learned a lot about research, time management and practical skills from this project, and these skills will really help me in future projects. 

3 Brush Make Up Challenge

 The first brush I chose to use for this challenge is a buffing brush from Sephora. I use this brush for buffing in foundation, cream bronzer and for this challenge i also used it to apply cream blush and buff in my concealer.

 The next brush I chose to use is my MAC 217. This brush is great for blending out eyeshadow, but can also be used to place colour. 

The last brush I chose is the MAC 208. This tiny angled brush is great for brows and eyeliner, but for this challenge I also cleaned it and re used it to apply my lipstick. 

The final look I created is a wearable daytime red lip. 

Step 1. Buff in foundation using the buffing brush.
Step 2. dot concealer onto face using fingers, and buff in with buffing brush.
Step 3. Clean the brush brush cleaner, and use the same brush to apply a cream blush to the cheeks.
Step 4. Take your angled brush and fill in the brows, I used a cream brow product.
Step 4. Using a white eyeshadow and your blending brush, pack the white colour onto the lid up to the brow bone.
Step 5. Take a dark brown shadow on the same brush, and blend into the crease.
Step 6. Switch back to your angled brush, and use a black shadow to create a winged liner.
Step 7. Clean your angled brush. Then use this brush to apply lipstick.
Step 8. Apply mascara.


This challenge has made me more aware of the different uses of my make up brushes, and how you can adapt them to work for different products and areas of the face. This is a useful skill to have as a make up artist as you may have to work in a situation with limited kit, for example some brushes may go missing but you still have to complete the look to a high standard. 

Elizabeth in Film

Elizabeth has been famously portrayed in many films throughout the years, and many make up artists have had their turn creating her look. Actors have really sought after the role and have gone to extreme lengths such as shaving their hair line back to secure them the role, and make sure they play Elizabeth convincingly. I think this shows just how intriguing and inspirational women find Elizabeth even now.

ELIZABETH - 1998
In this interpretation Elizabeth is played by Cate Blanchett, who won a golden globe for her role. The plot of the film follows the story of Elizabeths rise to power, and shows how she grows into the queen that she was. Cate also shaved her hairline back for this film to ensure that her costume looked realistic. The make up and hair for the film was done by a team including; Jenny Shircore, Anita Burger, Miranda Davison, Karen Ferguson, Christine Greenwood and Lisa Pickering. Costumes were created by Alexandra Byrne.

imdb. (1998). Elizabeth. Available: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0127536/?ref_=ttfc_fc_tt. Last accessed 4th December 2014.

ELIZABETH THE GOLDEN AGE - 2007
This film is the sequel to 'Elizabeth' also starring Cate Blanchett. This film is set later in Elizabeths rein, and shows her defending her country against threats from the church, and the Spanish Armada. This film won a academy award for costume design. The Make up and hair artists that worked on this film included Julia Vernon, Susan Howard and Joe Hopker. Alexandra Byrne once again was in charge of costumes.

imdb. (2007). Elizabethan Hair. Available: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0414055/fullcredits?ref_=tt_cl_sm#cast. Last accessed 4th Dec 2014.

THE PRIVATE LIVES OF ELIZABETH AND ESSEX - 1955
50's film star Betty Davis took a turn playing Elizabeth in this film, based around the relationship between the Queen and Robert Deveroux (The Earl of Essex). Bette Davis was the first actress to go to the extreme lengths of shaving her hairline and brows for the role, risking them never growing back. The make up in this film is far more 'Pantomine' like, the make up is very stark and ageing. The make up artist for this film is Perc Westmore, one of the famous 'Westmore' make up artists. Costume was covered by Orry Kelly.

imdb. (2014). The Private lives of Elizabeth and Essex. Available: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0031826/fullcredits?ref_=tt_cl_sm#cast. Last accessed 4th december 2014.

 THE VIRGIN QUEEN - 2005 
Anne Marie Duff plays Elizabeth in this four part BBC Drama. This mini series shows Elizabeths life through the years of her reign, from the very beginning up until death. This was of course a challenge for Anne Marie Duff, especially getting used to wearing such heavy amounts of make up and prosthetics used to age her. Fake teeth were added for the later years, and Duff had to work on her ability to talk with them in to ensure she played the part well. Make up for this production was done by Chris Lyons, Sjaan Gillings, Josh Weston, Sophia Burnage, Victoria Bancroft, Maureen McGill, Anna Morena, Karen Hartley and Neil Gorton. Costumes were designed by Amy Roberts.

imdb. (2014). The Virgin Queen . Available: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0481459/fullcredits?ref_=tt_cl_sm%23cast. Last accessed 4th December 2014.

ELIZABETH 1st - 2005 
This is a two part series, covering the later years of Elizabeths rein. Starring Helen Mirren, this series shows most attention to the Queens personal relationships with both the Earl of Essex, and the Earl of Leicester. The Make up for this series was done by Fae Hammond, Sue Westwood, Jan Hope-Kavanagh and Gemma Richards. Costume was done by Mike O'Neill.

imdb. (2014). Elizabeth 1st. Available: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0465326/fullcredits/. Last accessed 4th December 2014.

SHAKESPERE IN LOVE - 1998 
Judi Dench portrays Elizabeth for a more minor role in this movie. This film shows a much older Elizabeth, and her make up is done to reflect that. Her skin looks by no means perfect, she would have been covered in make up to hide the signs of mercury poisoning. It is likely she would have also lost a lot of her hair, so Judi wore wigs in the film. The make up for the film was done by Lisa Westcott and Veronica Brebner. 

imdb. (2014). Shakespere in Love. Available: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0138097/?ref_=nv_sr_1. Last accessed 4th December 2014.

FIRE OVER ENGLAND 1937 and THE SEA HAWK 1940 

Flora Robson Played Elizabeth twice, just liked Betty Davis did. This film shows Elizabeth at the time when she was under threat from the Spanish Armada. Perc Westmore was the make up artist, and costume was designed by Orry Kelly and Rene Hulburt. 

imdb. (2014). Fire over England. Available: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0028872/?ref_=nv_sr_1. Last accessed 4th December 2014.

imdb. (2014). The Sea Hawk. Available: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0033028/?ref_=nv_sr_1. Last accessed 4th December 2014.

ELIZABETH R - 1971

This mini series was renowned for its accuracy, and starred Glenda Jackson as Queen Elizabeth. Glenda shaved her hairline for the role, and prosthetic make up were used to create the look. It was mentioned in class about how the placement of the blush in this reenactment is very '70's' as it has been placed high on the cheek bone instead of on the apple, and I completely agree. Make up and hair in the film was done by Dawn Alcock and Sandra Shepherd. 

imdb. (2014). Elizabeth R. Available: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0066652/fullcredits/. Last accessed 4th December 2014.

Final assessment on Charlottes design

These are my final images from todays final assessment. Overall I am really pleased with the way that the design has turned out. It has been modified quite a lot since the initial design but I feel that all of the changes have benefitted the final design, and Charlotte and I have really worked well together to ensure that we were both happy with the outcome. Charlottes design challenged me in the way of needing to be very precise and delicate with certain aspects such as the lips, and making sure both sides of the face were equally contoured. I am pleased with my final images, but do with I had gotten the opportunity to be a little more creative with my poses, and maybe preparing the hair before hand so the hair and make up tie in better together. These are things I will definitely take into consideration in my next project and will find a way to produce some more interesting images, even in the very quick turnover of taking photos during assessment. I really liked creating Charlottes design as I love the heavily contoured look, the colour palette and the subtle and contemporary Elizabethan references, such as the heart shaped lips, and gold tips on the eyes to portray royalty.

INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO PARTNERS DESIGN

NEEDED:

Foundation brush

Blending brush

Contour brush

Liner brush

White supra colour

Foundation pallet

Concealer pallet

Powder

Eye shadow palette

Aqua colour

Mascara

METHOD:

1. Apply foundation mixed with the supra colour with foundation brush, buff this into the skin with the blending brush. Make sure to apply to ears and neck.

2. Conceal the face of any blemishes or redness.

3. Powder the skin with loose powder.

4. Contour the face with a burgundy eye shadow. This needs to be extreme contouring making sure there is a clear contrast between the pale skin and dark contour. Apply this to the forehead, nose, socket and cheek.

5. Go over the contour with a deeper, warm brown shade to add depth to the shadows.

6. Create a burgundy smoky eye on the upper lid reaching towards the brow.

7. A thin burgundy liner needs to be applied to the top lid using the aqua colour.

8. Apply mascara, topping the lashes with a single coat of burgundy aqua colour to make the lashes pop.

9. Create a heart shaped lip out of the same aqua colour.

Practice of my Partners Design

These images are from the first practice of my partners first design. We had practiced in class before this, but the design drastically changed from its earlier version. 

Charlotte was still undecided at this point about how she wanted her brows to be for this look. I applied the rest of the look so we could talk through some options for what she thought would look good and suit the look. I took these pictures and we also decided that the contour shade needed to be much darker, so that it would pick up better under a flashing camera. 

My main problem with this first practice was the lips. I struggled to create the precise heart shape without the correct tools. Another problem was that I used Supra Colour which made the lips very smudge able. I told charlotte about these problems and I suggested using tape on the lips along with the Aqua Colour, as once this dries it is more smudge proof.

I was pleased with the way the first practice went in the way that we made changes to the design which made it easier to complete and Charlotte was more satisfied with the outcome. 

Charlotte and I did some further practice in our own time, and she came to the decision that she wanted to stick with the burgundy theme and bring this colour onto the brows as well. I decided to use Aqua Colour for this as well to prevent smudging. I felt this practice went a lot better, as we made the contouring darker which makes the look stronger, I used the tape on the lips which really helped with the precise shape, and the burgundy brows tied it all together. Charlotte also made the decision that she did not want to use the gold liner in her look anymore, as she felt it was un needed and she liked the simple detail of gold just on the very tips of the lashes. After this practice I felt confident and ready for my assessment. 

Instructions on how to complete my final Make Up Design

Step 1. Apply Foundation with foundation brush. Buff into skin with stripping brush until it is no longer visible on the skin.

Step 2. Powder the skin with loose powder.

Step 3. Use tape to tape of the triangular shapes of the eye, taking extra care to ensure they are symmetrical.

Step 4. Start by working pale grey eyeshadow within the taped areas under and over the eye.

Step 5. Use a darker grey shadow towards the point of the triangle, to create a faded ombre effect.

Step 6. Apply a bright white shadow directly under the eye to complete the faded effect.

Step 7. Use eyelash glue to stick the pearls within the triangles.

Step 8. Glue a pearl on each brow bone.

Step 9. Remove the tape.

Step 10. Draw on the brows using black shadow on a wet brush. Make sure to flick the shadow up at the end.

Step 11. Apply Mascara.

Step 12. Line the lips with a dark lip liner.

Step 13. Fill the lips in with A dark plum lip colour, mixed with lip mix.

My Final Design Ideas

 My first design focused on the idea of the Elizabethans veins showing through their skin. I wanted to take this idea, but modernise it by having it on a normal, less pale complexion. I kept a bold lip which was popular in elizabethan times, and to hint at the way that Elizabethans skin must of looked like under the make up due to lead poisoning, I used a dark shadowy grey colour on the eyes. Originally, I wanted this to be my final design, but I found during practicing the design, that the veins were not as effective as what I had first hoped.

My next design is all about the placement of the make up. The Elizabethans wore their blush right in the centre of the cheeks, and the lipstick was patted on, so there was so harsh lip line. I also went for the same paled out skin that was popular at the time. To make this look contemporary, I have chosen bright, vibrant orange shade for the lips and cheeks.

This Design is completely focused on the heart shape that often re - occurs in Elizabethan hairstyles. The majority of the skin is a natural colour that fits the model, but there is a contrasting white triangle coming down onto the forehead. This triangle is made to create a heart shape with the hair being the top of the heart. This design is brought down onto the lips, where there are two tones of lipstick, once again used to create the shape of a heart.

This eye shape on this design has been inspired by the shape of some Elizabethan hairstyles. It is made to almost mirror the hairstyle (as seen in picture below). I also studded the eye area with pearls, which were Queen Elizabeths favourite gem, and a sign of purity and virginity. For this look I wanted to include a bold, unrealistic brow to completely contrast with the bleached out or shaved of eyebrows of Elizabethan times. This is the design I chose to have created as my final look, for my partner to create on me for her assessment. I love the way this design looks when it is completed, especially the sharp shapes of the eye.